© Trond Harelund

Navigates the steamships through powerful locks and narrow straits

"The passengers are constantly discovering new things," says the captain.

Few know the Halden Waterway as well as Arnfinn Jensen. He is the captain of the steamships D/S Engebret Soot and D/S Turisten, tirelessly chugging along the canal.

For 25 years, Jensen has devoted much of his time to preserving the history of these boats and keeping them accessible—all on a voluntary basis. His "pay" includes countless memorable experiences, smiling festive faces, delighted children, encounters with celebrities, the satisfaction of carrying on a proud tradition, and the sheer joy of captaining the venerable steamships.

"There are challenges," he admits. "The space where I steer is quite cramped, but it's incredibly rewarding to captain these vessels and meet so many happy passengers. It's an honour to be part of this," says Jensen, who also serves as chairman of the D/S Engebret Soot Foundation.

The steamship D/S Engebret Soot, named after the father of the Halden Canal, was launched on Lake Femsjøen in 1862, while D/S Turisten first took to the water in 1887. These ships are maintained entirely through volunteer efforts, with year-round work to keep them running.

Passion Keeps It Afloat

"What drives you?"

"My passion for historic boats and ensuring they stay operational. It’s thrilling to operate these coal- or wood-fired machines. This year, we even have three sisters, who are fire stokers keeping the original 1887 steam engine running. They've been trained by their grandfather—it’s fantastic!"

Many visitors are surprised when they peek into the engine room and see our engineers at work," Jensen adds with a smile.

A Season of Optimism

This season looks brighter than the last, despite ongoing restrictions. The demand for unique boat tours is high, and scheduled trips between Ørje and Skulerud, complete with an open café, are on the agenda.

Memorable Encounters

"Are there any experiences you'll never forget?"

"I’ve had all kinds of people aboard—from large corporations and celebrities to wedding parties, birthday celebrations, and film crews. I even had the Crown Prince and Princess on a tour. Guests can book an all-inclusive experience with meeting or party venues, catering, accommodation, and, of course, the boat trip. There's been a lot of whole-roasted pigs and good vibes," he laughs. This year, he’s hosting participants from Farmen Kjendis, currently filming at Bøensætre in Aremark.

A Unique Experience

Many people have yet to discover the waterway's majestic locks and diverse natural beauty. Jensen hopes more will take the opportunity to experience it aboard the nostalgic steamships.

"The entire waterway is beautiful in its own way, with narrow rivers and channels that open up into expansive views. There’s always something new to discover," describes Jensen.

The most challenging sections to navigate are Strømfosselva and Kjerringskrevet, areas that also captivate passengers. Recently, Norsk Ukeblad featured the Halden Waterway in a glowing article, recommending it as a destination for those seeking stunning nature, history, culture, unique experiences, and relaxation—plus delicious, locally sourced food and drink.

Ørje serves as the home port for D/S Engebret Soot and D/S Turisten. Jensen notes the strong community support for preserving the boats, which are regarded as local treasures, continuing to share the town's stories of locks, timber floating, tourism, industry, and engineering.

"I hope and believe these steamships have a long future ahead," concludes the captain, now beginning his 25th season on board.